How To Determine if this Blade is Right for You

Please read carefully before proceeding with purchase

I have included this step in the purchase pathway, as a large number of sales are now coming from word of mouth by very satisfied customers, (and I thank them for that). However this has created a situation where buyers are going straight to the purchase page without reading through this site to determine if this is the right blade for them.

This blades has been designed and constructed to be as tough and as safe as is possible. Within the limits of metals available and the weight limit that can be hung off the end of a brush cutter. However this blade is not indestructible and it never ceases to amaze me how innovative people can be when it comes to breaking it. Each failure has lead to a stronger improved model blade and this Model-21 blade is the latest version of that line of improvements.

This BrushDestructor blade is a very expensive investment on your part and reading below will help you determine if this investment is right for you.

This blade has been designed as a fire hazard reduction tool, to cut & mulch everything from standard grass, to long stringy grass, to tough vines, to all regrowth saplings, to 200mm gum trees. And to smoothy transition between all of these materials as you clear away unwanted bush on your property.

The use of this blade comes with the responsibility to use it how it was designed to be used and to be prepared to do the regular inspections and maintenance required for the safe use and longevity of this blade.

This blade has been designed to be most effective with sharp teeth, however with blunt or not teeth, it becomes no more effective than a standard tri-blade supplied with your brush cutter. If you are not prepared to keep the teeth sharp, than it would be more cost effective to stay with the standard tri-blade.

If you own a bicycle handle brush cutter, this blade may not be suitable for you. This is because bicycle handle machines, do not give you fine and responsive control of the cutting head that you would get from a loop handle brush cutter. Meaning you are far more likely to hit rocks or other obstacles and quickly take the sharp edge off the teeth.

If you have used a standard metal blade for some time and become use to the method of rev and bash, than this blade would not be a good investment for you. This is because brush cutters have been designed to run at high revs, so that a nylon line can smash and rip its way through soft vegetation. So if you don’t think that you can adapt your cutting technique of running the brush cutter at lower revs and applying gentle pressure to allow sharp teeth to do the cutting, than this is definitely not the right blade for you.

Even though this blade is used by a large number of stand alone commercial operators, one who even quickly puts a cover over the blade so that no one can see it, as it give him a considerable marketing edge over his competition.  For the large commercial operator using a number of brush cutter operators who have low respect for their tools or how they use them, I do not think this blade would be financially viable choice.

This blade uses pivoting Flail-Blade and a rubber impact stop. To absorb the occasional impacts with hard objects that is unavoidable with brush cutting through thick bush and is to prevent damaging shock loads to the blade and brush cutter. This shock absorption feature, does not mean that you can bash your way through woody material with a blunt blade, as eventually the blade or brush cutter will fail.

Even though this blade is very effective at cutting all types of grasses, even in a blunt stage. There seems to be a trend, where it is increasingly being used in residential properties and even being used as an edger. This is not what this blade was designed for, the edging of pavement and hitting concrete or stone walls could cause failure of the Flail-Blade which is definitely not a good idea in a residential area.

Finally

If you are not prepared to spend the maintenance time to check for cracks, keep the teeth sharp and keep the pivot bolts rotating freely. Then this is not the blade for you.

This blade, cuts better at lower revs and if you have become accustomed to using full revs and don’t think adapt to using lower revs. Then this is not the blade for you.

If you have developed the habit of cutting on the backward stroke, resulting in massive kickback and think that this blade will absorb that kickback to spare that shock going to your brush cutter. Then this is not the blade for you.

This blade has been designed and tested over the last eleven years using a 22cc & 35cc Honda brush cutters and so I cannot guarantee the longevity and integrity of this blade when used on higher powered brush cutters. So if you own a very powerful brush cutter and don’t think you can adapt you’re cutting technique to use sharp teeth, not rev and bash. Then this is not the blade for you.

However, used correctly, you will be amazed at the ability of this blade to clear all manner of overgrown vegetation and at its longevity. See Customer REVIEWS.

PLEASE NOTE – MODEL-21 IS THE CURRENT MODEL