7.0 – PURCHASE PAGE

Please read carefully before proceeding with your Purchase of the BrushDestructor blade.

A large number of sales are now coming from word of mouth by very satisfied customers, (and I thank them for that). However this has created a situation where buyers are going straight to the purchase page without reading through this site to determine if this is the right blade for them.

This blades has been designed and constructed to be as tough and as safe as is possible within the limits of metals available and the weight limit that can be hung off the end of a brush cutter. However this blade is not indestructible and it never ceases to amaze me how innovative people can be when it comes to breaking it. Each failure, has lead to an improved safer model blade.

This BrushDestructor blade is a very expensive investment on your part and reading below will help you determine if this investment is right for you.

This blade has been designed as a fire hazard reduction tool, to cut & mulch everything from standard grass, too long stringy grass, too tough vines, too all regrowth saplings up to 100mm in diameter. And to smoothy transition back and forth between all of the above materials as you clear away unwanted bush on your property.

The use of this blade comes with the responsibility to use it how it was designed to be used and to be prepared to do the regular inspections and maintenance required for the safe use and longevity of this blade.

This blade has been designed to be most effective with sharp teeth, however with blunt or not teeth, it becomes no more effective than a standard tri-blade supplied with your brush cutter. If you are not prepared to keep the teeth sharp, than it would be more cost effective for you to stay with the standard tri-blade.

If you own a bicycle handle brush cutter, this blade may not be suitable for you. This is because bicycle handle machines, do not give you fine and responsive control of the cutting head that you would get from a loop handle brush cutter. Meaning you are far more likely to hit rocks or other obstacles and quickly take the sharp edge off the teeth, requiring more time spent sharpening the teeth on the Flail-Blades.

This blade is not designed for close ground clearing, as the risk of hitting stones hidden in the grass and even dust sitting on these plants. Will quickly sand blast the flail-blades away, as can be seen by this photo.

I recommend staying at least 300mm away from the ground, on the first pass of clearing a new area of bush. You can come back in a month or two and do a closer cut, after all the mulch has settles and started to rot away exposing any rocks and other hard objects.

If you have used a standard metal blade for some time and become use to the method of rev and bash, then this blade would not be a good investment for you. This is because brush cutters have been designed to run at high revs, so that a nylon line can smash and rip its way through soft vegetation. So if you don’t think that you can adapt your’e cutting technique of running the brush cutter at lower revs and applying gentle pressure to allow sharp teeth to do the cutting, than this is definitely not the right blade for you.

Even though this blade is used by a large number of stand alone commercial operators, one who even quickly puts a cover over the blade so that no one can see it, as it give him a considerable marketing edge over his competition.  For the large commercial operator using a number of brush cutter operators, who have low respect for their tools or how they use them, I do not think this blade would be financially viable choice for your business.

This blade uses pivoting Flail-Blades and a Rubber Impact Absorber, to absorb the occasional impacts with hard objects that is unavoidable with brush cutting through thick bush. That give is to help minimise the damage to the cutting teeth of these blade. This shock absorption feature, does not mean that you can bash your way through woody material with a blunt blades as some customer do, because eventually the Rubber Impact Absorber will fail.

Below you can see how the impact absorber has failed and the flail-blade become wedged between the top and bottom hubs and I am told that it is very hard to get out.

Even though this blade is very effective at cutting all types of grasses, even in a blunt stage. There seems to be a trend, where it is increasingly being used in residential properties and even being used as an edger. This is not what this blade was designed for, the edging of pavement and hitting concrete or stone walls will cause excessive wear of these flail-blades and the early failure of the rubber impact stop.

If you are not prepared to spend the maintenance time to check for cracks, keep the teeth sharp and keep the pivot bolts rotating freely. Then this is not the blade for you.

This blade, cuts better at lower revs, however if you have become accustomed to using full revs and don’t think you can adapt to using lower revs. Then this is not the blade for you.

If you have developed the bad habit of cutting on the backward stroke, which is when you swing the brush cutter from your left to your right, or when you are using the 12 to 4 o’clock area of the cutting head. Hitting an object with the 12 to 4 o’clock area of a blade, causes the blade to dig in and then flail-blades are flung backwards and forwards with greater velocity than the blade is traveling, Resulting in massive kickback.

If you think that this blade will absorb that kickback to spare that shock going to your brush cutter. Then this is not the blade for you.

You should only ever cut on the forward stroke, (right to left), which allows you to cut cleanly through the job.

This blade has been designed and tested over the last thirteen years using a 22cc & 35cc Honda brush cutters and so I cannot guarantee the longevity and integrity of this blade when used on higher powered brush cutters. So if you own a very powerful brush cutter and don’t think you can adapt you’re cutting technique to use sharp teeth, not rev and bash. Then this is not the blade for you.

If what has been said on this page offends you, Then this is not the blade for you.

However, used correctly, you will be amazed at the ability of this blade to clear all manner of overgrown vegetation and at its longevity. See Customer REVIEWS.

Speaking of Longevity, I have had two customers come back to me complaining that the steel is not hard enough and this blade does not last as long as implied on this web site. Probably because I have mentioned that I have had to lower the hardness of the steel for liability reasons.

At the original hardness of HRC 48, a hard impact would likely chip a large chunk of the blade off. Going down to HRC 47, a hard impact could chip the whole tooth off. With the current hardness of HRC 46,  the cutting edge of the tooth will deform without chipping. So with the high speed impacts that a flail blade has to deal with, there is only three levels between being too hard and brittle and being too soft where the tooth looses its edge too quickly. However, the difference between these hardnesses makes very little difference, as to how quickly the metal can be sand blasted away.

The photo below sent in by customer, shows the wear of the flail-blade after only a few tanks of fuel, compared to a new blade. I asked him return the blade for inspection and testing.

I resharpened these flail-blades using the new M-22 sharpening jig to mark the new tooth line, and then tested these blades myself for a couple of tanks of fuel.

Below is the same flail-blade after a couple of tanks of fuel, where you can see that the edge of the tooth is polished off, after clearing everything from grass to 100mm saplings.

When you look closely, you can see that most of the sand blasting of the flail-blade is on the underside, which suggest to me that this blade was used for close ground clearing. If the sand blasting was even on top and bottom surface with a nice round edge, this would suggest that it was used in a very dusty environment where there was a lot of dust sitting on leave and the bark of trees being cut. For example, clearing along the side of a dirt road in very dry conditions.

If you live in a very dusty environment, or must cut close to the ground, do us both a favour and use the blade supplied with your brush cutter. If you are not happy with its performance and you obviously wont be if you are looking for something better. Grind some shredding teeth on the front edge, this will improve the performance of that blade.

Finally

This BrushDestructor Blade is a retirement business for me to keep my mind sharp and body exercised.  The high price of this blade, comes from its complex design, the number of parts in this blade and the very small production runs which give me the ability to make very quick changes to the design if a customer finds a weakness in some part of the blade. It never ceases to amaze me, how innovative people are at breaking things.

I have taken no income from designing, making and selling this blade over the years. All income from the selling of this blade, goes back into R & D to make it better, safer and stronger. My reward is in providing a quality product and service to help myself and other people affordably manage their fire hazard risks around their homes.

Sadly over the years, I have had to reduce the hardness of the steel a couple of times, to make it less brittle and less likely to break sending bits of blade flying out at high velocity that could seriously injure someone. As a result, the average user has to now put up with a blade with lower teeth wear resistance, all to make this blades safer for a small number who have more money than sense.

At almost 70, I am getting tied of the assembly, wrapping and endless hours every night replying to emails. So instead of trying to grow the business, I have been actively putting obstacles in the way, like making the purchase page hard to find, increasing the reading requirement (like this page) and now passing on the increases in material prices which I have been carrying, to keep sales to about one new sale per week day (a max of 4 to 5 sales a month, which is my personal sweet spot). Much of my time now goes to finding out how what we though was our government are really private corporations owned by offshore banksters, which has put me in their crosshairs. The result at this stage is the de-ranking of this web site, so that it is very hard to find, so sales of about 1 per month are the norm now.

Congratulation on making it this far,

Currently only have LARGE size gloves left.

All Replacement Parts, Sharpening Kit & Anti-Vibration Gloves in options – 2 to 4 are sold at lower cost, when purchased and shipped with the blade, due to savings in handling and mailing costs. ALL PRICES ARE IN AUSTRALIAN DOLLARS.

Opt-1; BLADE ONLY – $225.00

Is the best option if you are tied of replacing nylon line, who mainly want to control unruly grass and weeds that do not require keeping the teeth sharp, or commercial operators ordering multiple blades.

Opt-2; BLADE + SHARPENING KIT– $255.00

Is the best option, if you want to clear larger properties, or areas of woody weeds that require the maintenance of sharp teeth to cut and mulch efficiently.

Opt-2G; Opt-2 + Anti-Vibration Gloves – $285.00

Save $19 on the price of the glove, when purchased with blade.

Opt-3; BLADE + SHARPENING KIT + SPARE FLAIL-BLADES – $295.00

Is the best option, if you want to clear and maintain larger lifestyle properties of woody weeds and saplings around the house for fire hazard reduction. I have generally found that customers have to wear through one set of Flail-Blades, before they develop the skill and control of the brush cutter to miss rocks.

Opt-3G; Opt-3 + Anti-Vibration Gloves – $325.00

Save $19 on the price of the glove, when purchased with blade.

Opt-4; BLADE + SHARPENING KIT + COMPLETE SPARE PARTS – $355.00

Has been requested by some customers who spend whole days away from home and want all spare parts on hand. It has also been requested by customers, who want the full set of replacement parts, just in case the business goes broke. Let’s hope that does not happen.

Opt-4G; Opt-4 + Anti-Vibration Gloves – $385.00

Save $19 on the price of the glove, when purchased with blade.